Airhead Reference › The book › III · The Short Course
Chapter III

The Short Course

Everything else in this book answers a question you already know to ask. This chapter is for the questions you do not — the order to do things in, the habits that save a weekend, and the mistakes that are common enough to have names.

None of it is difficult. Airheads were built to be maintained by their owners, with hand tools, at the roadside if necessary. What catches people is sequence: the right job done in the wrong order wastes a fortnight and teaches you nothing.

Every figure on this page resolves to one model and year in the book. Pick your bike and the rows that apply to it come forward, with the rest marked.

Open this chapter in the book
Where to start — a bike you have just bought
OrderDo thisWhereWhy first
1Find out exactly what it isVIN, model, and which side of 9/80Every parts order and half the specifications hang on the autumn 1980 divide. Establish this before you buy a single component, not after the wrong one arrives.
2Compression testboth cylinders, wide open throttleTwenty minutes that tell you whether you are doing maintenance or a rebuild. Do this before spending money on anything else — it changes what the rest of the list is worth.
3All fluids outengine, gearbox, final driveYou do not know when they were last changed and the seller does not either. Cheap, and the state of what comes out is free diagnosis.
4Valve clearancescold, both sidesThe most common neglected job and the one that quietly destroys cams and seats. Also your first look inside the engine.
5Charging system checkresting volts, then running voltsTwo meter readings. An airhead that will not charge strands you, and the fault is usually cheap if you find it before the battery is cooked.
6Ignition timingstrobe, idle and full advanceDo this before touching the carburettors. Most “fuelling” complaints are timing complaints wearing a disguise.
7Brake fluid and fork oilboth legs, matchedAge-based jobs, not mileage-based. Fluid that has sat for a decade has absorbed water whether the bike was ridden or not.
8Driveshaft splinesinspect and lubricateThe expensive airhead failure that gives almost no warning. If there is no record of it being done, assume it has not been.
9Now, and only now, the carburettorssync, then mixtureBy this point a genuine carburettor fault is the only thing left standing. Start here instead and you will chase symptoms for months.
The single most useful rule in this book. Diagnose in the order the engine actually needs things: compression, then spark, then fuel, then air. A weak cylinder mimics a lean carburettor. Retarded timing mimics a rich one. An air leak mimics both. Working upstream to downstream means you fix causes; working the other way means you adjust around them forever.
Film · in the book
Day two: the fairing comes off.
Seat, then the lower fairing panels, then the tank and headlight are in the open. The '81 R 100 RT this book was written beside, on its second day in the shop. Silent, 0:21. Watch it in the book →
Tips that save a weekend
TipDetailApplies toNotes
Photograph everything before you touch itphone, from several anglesespecially cable and hose routingevery jobFree, takes seconds, and repays itself the first time you cannot remember which way the throttle cables crossed. Routing is the thing nobody remembers and no manual shows clearly.
Do not destroy what you have not yet replacedlabel, do not cutwiring especiallyrewiring, upgradesBorrowed from motogadget's own installation guide and it applies far beyond wiring. Keep the old system intact and identified until the new one has proven itself running.
Bag and label per assemblyone bag per component, written onnot one tray for everythingany teardownFasteners on an airhead are not interchangeable as often as they look. The bag that says “left rocker” is worth more than a good memory three weeks later.
Both sides, always the samesymmetry beats absolute valuesforks, carbs, clearances, timingboxer twinsA boxer tolerates being slightly off spec far better than being different side to side. Matched-but-imperfect runs smoothly; perfect-on-one-side does not.
Buy the gasket set before you startand the seals you might neednot after the engine is openany internal workA bike in pieces waiting on a two-pound part is how projects die. Order the consumables with the tools.
Anti-seize changes torquea lubricated thread pulls tighterat the same wrench readingexhaust, fastenersPublished figures assume a stated thread condition. Use anti-seize where it belongs, but know you are no longer reading the same number — see .
Replace circlips and crush washersnever reusepennies eacheverywhereA reused circlip has already been sprung once. This is the cheapest insurance on the entire bike.
Write down what you diddate, mileage, what and whyon paper, kept with the bikeforeverYou are also the next owner's documentation. A bike with records sells for meaningfully more, and you will not remember which gear oil you chose in three years.
What to avoid
AvoidBecauseInsteadNotes
Rejetting to fix a running problemthe commonest airhead mistakeit is usually timing, valves or an air leakwork the order aboveJet kits sell well because the symptom presents at the carburettor. Confirm compression, clearances, timing and intake sealing first — the jetting was probably right when it left the factory.
Pulling the flywheel or clutch carrier without blocking the crankstated flatly by Snowbumno exceptions, any modelholding tool —A thirty-five dollar tool against damage you cannot buy your way out of quickly.
Trusting one manual's numberthe manuals contain known errorsincluding reversed instructionscross-check —Where two sources disagree this book says so rather than picking a winner. Treat any single figure that seems wrong as probably wrong.
Over-torquing into aluminiumforty-year-old castingsthreads pull out, cases cracktorque wrench —“Good and tight” is how helicoils get sold. The published figures are lower than instinct suggests, and instinct is wrong.
The “while I am in there” spiralscope creep finishes more projects than rustone job becomes elevenfinish, ride, then start againA running bike you keep improving beats a perfect bike you never reassemble. Set the boundary of the job before you start and write it down.
Leaving ethanol fuel in the tankover a long lay-upattacks old lines and liners, absorbs waterdrain, or use stabiliserThe tank interior and the fuel lines on a bike this age were not designed around modern pump fuel.
Mixing brake fluid typesDOT 5 silicone into a DOT 4 systemnot compatibleA conversion is a complete strip and flush, not a top-up.
Buying on cosmeticspaint is the cheapest thing to fixsplines and compression are nottest what is expensiveA tidy bike with unknown splines and low compression costs more than a scruffy one with records. Judge the bike by items 1, 2 and 8 above, not by the tank.
If you do only one thing. Set the valve clearances, cold, both sides, to the figures in . It is the job the bike most needs, the cheapest to do, the one that reveals the most about the engine's condition — and it takes about the time of a long lunch. Everything else on this page can wait a week. That one cannot wait a season.

Chapters